Secrets of propagating plants

Spring is finally melting the last snow of winter and the bulbs are up in gardens all over Carbon County. Now is a good time to think about plant propagation.

Propagation

by seeds

Spring is the time to plant seeds. Fresh seeds are available from local garden centers, and for many of us, seed propagation is the cheapest and easiest way to get new plants. This is especially true for annual flowers and vegetables.

Most of the seed packs come with good instructions, so you don't have to be concerned about how to plant. Although it's fun to get a head start by sowing seeds indoors, most plants will do just as well if you sow directly into your prepared garden soil. One caution, don't use last year's seed packets. The seeds may not be viable any longer, and what a disappointment it is when nothing sprouts.

Propagation

by plant division

Perennials are often very difficult to start from seed since they require specific conditions to germinate. According to Michigan State University's "Plant Propagation Basics," plant division has an almost 100 percent success rate. Dividing plants works best for bulbs and plants that form mats or clumps. Single-stemmed plants cannot be divided.

I like to dig up my iris rhizomes every couple of years and break off the babies. The plants bloom better after the extra rhizomes are removed, and those baby rhizomes can be replanted. This is also the case with day lilies and spreading perennials like cone flowers, bee balm, and any of the mints.

Propagation

by cuttings

If you have a plant you love, propagation by cuttings will give you an identical plant unless your specimen is grafted on root stock as is the case with roses. If your plant is herbaceous it may grow from a leaf cutting. However, woody plants are best propagated by stem or root cuttings.

Penn State's "Master Gardener Manual" reminds us that whether you are propagating from a leaf, root, or a stem make your cut with a sharp knife that has been dipped in rubbing alcohol to kill any diseases that might be present. Remove any flowers or buds so all the energy will go into forming roots and shoots.

Insert your cuttings into a sterile rooting medium that doesn't contain fertilizer. Bags of rooting medium are available at most garden centers, or you can make your own from peat moss and pearlite.

Moisten the medium before inserting the cuttings, and keep the medium evenly moist while your cuttings are forming roots and shoots. Though many of us do it, resist rooting in a glass of water because less oxygen is available to the emerging roots and this will stop some plants from making roots.

Keep the cuttings in bright but indirect light until the plant is established, and then transplant it into the garden once the soil is warm enough for the plant to grow.

Here are some general tips on propagation by cuttings from Michigan State University's "Plant Propagation Basics."

• Cuttings from younger plants or younger plant parts will take more easily than older plants or older plant parts.

• Cuttings from side branches can cause roots or leaves to sprout at crazy angles in essence they don't know which end is up.

• Rooting hormones will speed rooting and reduce the likelihood that cuttings will dry out before they establish new roots.

• Keep rooting medium moist, but not saturated.

• Cover plants with a clear plastic tent or mist plants to maintain a high humidity to reduce drying.

The Penn State Extension office and the master gardener green line is available to answer questions about propagation and any other lawn and garden topic. The number is 570-325-2788.